Our first beach vacation, ever – Mui Ne, Vietnam

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By Todd Berman    Thurs, January 29, 2009
Pink drink umbrellas
Pink drink umbrellas | Photo by Lauren Girardin

First of 3 posts in a row by Todd. Boy's on a roll!

When Lauren and I visited the islands of Greece back in 2006, we spent day after day exploring dramatic cliff-side monasteries and volcanic craters. Only on the last day of our nine day Greek vacation did we force ourselves to skip snorkeling and lounge on the black sands of Santorini. Even then, we couldn't resist a small adventure, taking boat ride to try out the red sands on the other side of the shoal. Having traveled so far to get to a foreign country, we wanted to see stuff, not lay on the beach. We're from Long Island, a place where large, crowded beaches line the long south shore, so we take beaches for granted.

Now, after six months of non-stop new experiences while traveling the world, we've finally taken our first real beach vacation on Mui Ne's beach in Vietnam, and we like it.

(Faithful email and RSS readers, visit www.ephemerratic.com to read on, get travel tips, and check out photos)

Fresh catch on Mui Ne's beach
Fresh catch on Mui Ne's beach | Photo by Lauren Girardin

Here in Mui Ne, we've found a small, affordable hotel with pleasant grounds where we can sit in lounge chairs overlooking the South China Sea. When we get too hot, we alternate between taking a dip in the sea and paddling around the hotel's swimming pool.

The hotel makes tasty drinks of lemon juice and sweetened condensed milk (tastes much better than it sounds), which we spike with some local rice vodka. While we sip our very Vietnamese cocktails, we watch fisherman haul in their catch from oddly shaped thatch boats, round like rice bowls. A couple of teenage anglers who have no boat float in an inner tube and pull in a half dozen small herring, which they allow Lauren to examine on the beach.

Kids cool off in Mui Ne's Fairy Stream
Kids cool off in Mui Ne's Fairy Stream | Photo by Lauren Girardin

We also watch some of our fellow hotels guests, four generations of a Vietnamese family, play in the waves with childish delight. Picture a couple of grandmas wearing wide-brimmed hats and modest one-piece bathing suits. They hold hands and wade into the water where a wave knocks them down. They get up laughing hysterically then do it again. They continue this game for hours with no break in the laughter. They're still giggling as they spend another twenty minutes trying to hose the sand out from under their suits.

For five days, we bask in Mui Ne's fortuitous micro-climate. It's pouring rain a few hours south in Saigon and we hear there's a near typhoon in Nha Trang, but the weather is dry here. It just means we have stronger waves in sunny Mui Ne.

We're not completely immune to the lure of site-seeing here. We rent bikes to get to the "fairy stream" where, along with a couple hundred hyper local school kids, we wade through clear waters and ogle at the strange red and white rock formations. Later on, I enter my first poker tournament and would have won one million dong if one of the local kite-surfing teachers hadn't knocked me out in the first round (he completes his straight with the river card).

Other than that, we stay on the beach. Everywhere else in this world, we've been traveling. Here, we're on vacation.

Travel Tips – Mui Ne, Vietnam

Where we ate:

  • Quan An Lap Thao - Tasty grilled seafood like shrimp marinated in coconut juice, generously large portions of fried spring rolls, and rice vodka by the bottle: YEH
  • Restaurant Ni No - We waited a long time only to be served such middling food: NAH
  • Moon Fish - The dishes had a little creativity, but were not worth the higher prices and smaller portions: MEH
  • Pogo - Decent spring rolls to fuel their Wednesday night poker tournaments. A good place to meet expat kite-surfing instructors: MEH
  • Nhu Bao - Pretty good grilled seafood: MEH
  • [something in Vietnamese] Saigon Cafe, just north of the Fairy Stream – We couldn't find the "real" Saigon Cafe recommended in Lonely Planet, and instead went to this restaurant with a longer name. It turned out to have some tasty fare: YEH
  • Hoang Kim Golden - Bland food. Pass the chili sauce please: NEH
  • Hoang Vu - A slightly more upscale place than the usual beach restaurant with above average curry. "Silver Paper" means tin foil: YEH

Where we stayed:

  • Minh Tam Resort, just south of Hoang Kim Golden - A cute beach-side hotel with clean, if unremarkable rooms, a nice pool, and food as good as most places in Mui Ne. Twenty dollars a day includes breakfast and an AC room. Nothing fancy, but it was the best value we found in town: YEH

What we saw:

  • Fairy Stream -Twisty, trippy red and white rock formations alongside a stream that you can wade through. Hopefully there wont be a massive school field trip when you visit as the hordes of kids were distracting and loud: YEH
  • Mui Ne's Beach - Much of the sand disappears at high tide, but we were happy to watch from our lounge chairs on the sea wall. Playing in the waves is good fun: YEH

Photos from Mui Ne, Vietnam

If you can't see the photo slide show above, view the photo set on Flickr.


Comments
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Andrew Sebilian Jan 30, 2009 |
I am in awe of you guys ... so jealous on one hand yet on the other wondering if I could ever take so a long trip away from home. The pictures are amazing (including the ones from the war museum - no need to censor your experiences here, this isn't network tv) and I'm enjoying reading the posts.

I didn't realize how much you guys liked to hear back from us, so I apologize for that, but I'm loving it and can't wait to see more.

By the way, we just got a package from you guys last night! We haven't had a chance to open it, but rest assured it made it safely.

Take care, Drew

P.S. How much $$ is one million dong???
Lauren G Jan 30, 2009 |  
You know as soon as your baby is old enough, Sheri will take you guys on a long-term trip. Maybe a month maybe more. Sheri has a big travel bug!

By then perhaps scientists will have perfected a transporter so you can zip home for a few days on your travels. That's my ideal too. This year-long travel is rough (says I while drinking cheap, cold beer in a wonderful hotel garden cafe in Chiang Mai).

We love comments because, even though we can see the number of people who visit our website via Google Analytics (including a whopping 22% who arrive every day after searching for "big breasts of indian women"!!), we can't tell who is visiting. We love to know it's our friends reading along!

P.S. - 1,000,000 Vietnamese dong is currently 57.12 USD. Get thee to http://www.xe.com for all your currency conversion needs.
Sharna Fey Feb 10, 2009 |
Hi you two world travelers!

Well finally I stopped just reading and decided to write. I have loved reading about your adventours. The stories and the art are so fun.

Kim and I are so thrilled for you and we also miss you. Just so you know. Rain here today which is so needed. Bring water with you when you return because it will be in short supply!

As a beach loving person I am glad you found your way there. I thought you might want to know that there are beaches closer to home....like many islands called Hawaii. Very warm and beautiful and not so far to travel to!

Miss both,

Sharna
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