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Diwali gives me a headache – Udaipur, India

By Lauren Girardin

Tue, December 16, 2008

Diwali ferris wheel in Udaipur, India | Photo by Lauren Girardin

"Rides and attractions! Non-stop action! Folks, animals, fireworks too. It's the single most fun thing you can do!!"

This hokey siren song got stuck in my head during Diwali, a multi-day holiday celebrated throughout India. New Yorkers who weren't off at sleep-away camp will recognize the lyrics from commercials for the Westchester County Fair, ads that repeated relentlessly every summer on local TV stations.

Apparently, my brain could dredge up no more appropriate a theme to latch onto as Todd and I maneuvered through throngs of small-town Rajasthani families who'd flocked to the relatively big city of Udaipur ("Folks!"); stepped around doorway idols sculpted from fresh cow dung ("Animals!"); and dodged flaming crackers tossed into the narrow streets and sometimes directly at tourists ("Fireworks!"). All this and more in celebration of the Hindu Festival of Lights, the holiday equivalent of those exasperating birthday cake candles you can't blow out. Between the county fair ditty and the constantly booming crackers, I had a persistent headache for the many days of Diwali.

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Cow dung idol in India | Photo by Lauren Girardin

Besides the similarity to county fairs in the U. S. of A., Diwali reminded me of a frightening Fourth of July that Todd and I spent in Occidental, California with several close friends. As we stood on the small town's main street, crowds of drunken local yokels flung fireworks every which way, heedless of the direction they'd take or damage they'd inflict. Baby carriages, old people, buildings, dry brush, and eyeballs be dammed!

Or perhaps Diwali was most like the many Fourth of Julys that Todd and I have spent in San Francisco's Mission District, where from any perch overlooking the neighborhood you can watch fireworks burst anonymously from backyards and rooftops, sounding too much like the violent climax of a gang war between the Sureños and Norteños.

Colorful store for turbans and more | Photo by Lauren Girardin

Diwali wasn't all crackers and cow dung idols. As we wandered around Udaipur, strangers lounging in propped open doorways would rush over to us to share a piece of barfi, a wonderful sweet made from boiled down milk and sugar, and wish us a "Sup Diwali!" Strands of lights hung from every building and temple, and entire blocks were closed to traffic, joyfully if garishly lit with fluorescent light tubes and covered with sparkly silver garland.

And of course, there was the fairground where, for just a fistful of rupees, you could risk your life on a rickety ferris wheel, tilt-a-whirl, or go-kart track, all hastily assembled in time for the holiday.

Travel Tips – Udaipur, Ranakpur and Jodhpur, India

Where we ate:

Nearly the world record for longest ear hair - Udaipur, India

Nearly the world record for longest ear hair | Photo by Lauren Girardin

Five Star Fruit Juice - This ice juice stand is a decent spot to watch the claustrophobic traffic surrounding the main market traffic: YEH
Mid Town Restaurant - The 'Maharaja Thali' is big enough to fill up two for lunch. They also have an interesting selection of special local dishes like kabuli, a strangely appealing soaked fried bread dish: YEH
Aranyawas Hotel & Restaurant, near Ranakpur – Though we only tried one dish, paneer butter masala, made-fresh-to-order paneer was indulgently scrumptious, the view impressive, and the staff really friendly: YEH
Maxim's Restaurant - Ugh. This place was...ugh. Really bad rice and bland food: NAH
Bawarchi Restaurant - Mmm...thali. Really good, though Natraj was a notch better.: YEH
Sunrise Cafe - Eating at this place confirmed for us that we should never, ever eat in the backpacker area again, no matter how far we had to walk: NAH
Natraj Lodge - Mmm...more thali. We were the only white people there, and were a major attraction for the other diners, especially when Lauren popped the cap off of her soda bottle with her special ring. The Gujarati thali was fantastic. Don't be surprised to get your sweets early on since Gujarati's nibble on their dessert while they eat their spicy dinner: YEH!

Where we stayed:

Yogi's Guest House, Jodhpur – They have super budget rooms with no window and stylin' rooms with panoramic views of the fort. Plus the friendliest and most helpful staff we encountered in India. The food at the rooftop restaurant is just ok, but make sure to ask for it very spicy: YEH
Udai Niwas Hotel, Udaipur - Such a shame they had lots of little roaches in the first room we stayed in. Though they were responsive, changing our room quickly and giving us a can of spray, they really need to work out the bugs: MEH

What we saw:

Jaswant Thada, Jodhpur – This memorial to a maharaja is worth the haggle with the rickshaw driver you'll need to get there: YEH
Meherangargh (Fort), Jodhpur - There are a LOT of forts in Rajasthan. This one's admission fee includes a decent, if sometimes dull audio tour: YEH
Ranakpur Temple, Ranakpur – It's a schlep to get to this impressive Jain temple, but since there's currently no easy way except hired car to travel from Jodhpur to Udaipur, it's easy enough to make a stop: YEH
City Palace Museum, Udaipur - Lovely, if heavily restored mosaics, bizarre art made from artillery and weaponry, and a kitsch collection of portraits of the current maharaja makes this pricey attraction worthwhile: YEH
Jag Mandir, Udaipur - It takes an expensive boat ride to get to this island, the one that isn't the Octopussy island. The boat ride is not very long, and the island is disappointing. Look for the stairs that lead to a landing where you can enjoy the scenery without dealing with the overpriced restaurants that block most of the views: MEH
K.K. Art by Rakesh Soni, Udaipur - One of the most memorable miniature painters that fill Udaipur's streets, this friendly artist claims that, at 8 cm, his ear hair is one centimeter shy of the world record. Talented with the brush as well, we bought a little pink Ganesh painted on an old postcard: YEH

Photos from Udaipur, Ranakpur and Jodhpur, India

If you can't see the photo slide show above, view the photo set on Flickr.

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Raja	Dec 16, 2008 \|

I think it gave Sarah a headache, too, that year she and the boys were in Madras for it and I arrived the day after. Not sure how they did so well with it, considering their fondness for loud noises (they had their hands over their ears for the whole first half of the monster truck show last weekend, and we made a quick exit at intermission).

I've had plenty of experience with the noise and chaos of other festivals and religious holidays in India, but I've never been there for Diwali - it must be a whole 'nother level.

Jenn Caples

Dec 18, 2008 |

Wow keep on truckin on! It snowed in Las Vegas, WOW! Brrrr the West is cold, brrrrrrr. I hope you two stay warm? How's the weather?

namaste
Jenn

p.s. sorry to hear of your Loss Lauren.

Lauren G

Dec 18, 2008 |

It was upwards of 90 Fahrenheit most places in Rajasthan, and we were there at the start of the "cool" season. I'm not sure I'd recommend Diwali as a time to visit India, unless you're visiting locals, since it's such a big family time.

(Thanks for your thoughts Jenn)

Dennis Plink

Jun 19, 2009 |

Hi there.
I found your site here when looking for someone in India that we want to invite to our wedding there. We are from Australia but after 9 trips to India we finally decided to tie the knot- and where better than there? On Diwali. On the Lake!
We have spent 2 Diwalis with Rakesh and his family (you know- the artist with the hairy ears).
You have a photo of him here. I was wondering if you have his email address?
If so it would be most appreciated!
Cheers,
Dennis and Connie, Australia.
dplink@bigpond.net.au

Lauren

Jun 23, 2009 |

What a great comment to get on our website. It speaks to the power of the internet, the written word, and ear hair!

Meeting Rakesh was one of the highlights of the time Todd and I spent in Udaipur. He's a character and a talented artist. We bought one of his small Ganesh paintings on the back of an old postcard.

I've sent you an email with Rakesh's email address. Please tell Rakesh that Todd and Lauren, who met him during Diwali 2008 and run the travel site www.ephemerratic.com, say "Hi."

Happy wedding.